The Value in the Old
In my opinion, consumers often think less of upcycled, repurposed or vintage pieces. For some reason, I think they consider them to be gross, dirty or lower quality. Honestly, though, it makes sense. We live in a society where people are encouraged to buy into the new, new, new. Brands are constantly feeding us new collections, new pieces, new campaigns, new everything. Why would we hold onto anything when something new is inevitably going to pop up and catch our attention? This constant cycle of production and consumerism leads to a short-term view of fashion’s value. As stated by Vanessa Friedman (2020) in an article for the New York Times:
That was, it turned out, a short-term way of thinking that reeked of insecurity, relying on freneticism and white noise. It may have boosted sales, but it also led to not only a glut of stuff but also an erosion of the value proposition. After all, if the company that made a garment didn’t think it was worth hanging on to for more than a few weeks, why should the person who buys it? (para. 15)
But something quite interesting has happened to the fashion industry throughout the Covid-19 pandemic. As global supply and production shut down, designers were forced to rely on the old to create the new. In some of my previous blog posts – “Upcycled” and “Deadstock” – I talked about this very concept. While designers were, quite honestly, forced to value what might’ve once been considered trash or rejects, the key is shifting the consumer mindset – helping consumers to recognize the value in vintage and repurposed goods. Display Copy, a new online (and print) magazine and marketplace, is working to communicate that very message. Brynn Heminway, editor of the magazine, stated, “The idea was to make used clothes desirable” (Friedman, 2020, para. 4).
“After years of pushing only new, new, new (while behind the scenes scouring flea markets for inspiration), fashion brands are now beginning, finally, to publicly embrace the old. Upcycling is reaching critical mass.”
Presented similarly to any other high-fashion magazine, Display Copy features brands like Prada, Helmut Lang, Hermès and Bottega Veneta. The key, though, is that nothing included is new at all – “Every item of clothing it pictures and promotes is vintage. Secondhand. Thrifted. Pre-loved. For resale” (para. 3). In order to purchase these pieces, consumers are sent to sites including the Salvation Army, Etsy and eBay.
Display Copy’s “About” statement.
So, why? Display Copy’s website discusses how the fashion industry must embrace a circular model in order to mediate its detrimental effects on the environment. It states, “The industry’s carbon impact is on pace to create irreversible damage to our planet, and therefore to us, as early as 2024” (“About,” 2020, para. 5). It goes on, “Simply put, buying vintage is a way to disengage from the damaging global supply chain” (para. 6). By expertly curating luxury vintage pieces, Display Copy hopes to encourage consumers to see the value in the old. Rather than seeing vintage pieces as old and of-the-past, see them as stories – representations of a person or a time in life.
A continuation of Display Copy’s “About” statement.
Just this past weekend, I got the chance to visit some of my friends from college. One of my dearest friends was wearing this wonderful, oversized cashmere sweater. I rushed right over to her, “WHERE did you get this?!” She responded sweetly, “It was my grandfather’s.” How lovely, right? A luxurious piece that carries more than quality – it carries memories of a loved one.
As peak shopping season approaches, I encourage you to consider the old – its value and the stories it tells.
Bye for now,
McGee