What's The Story?
Over the past couple of weeks, I have started interviewing luxury consumers and luxury brand representatives for my thesis research. One theme that has really started to present itself throughout this research is that sustainability simply does not mean the same thing to all consumers. In fact, there really isn’t an agreed upon definition for sustainability – among the fashion industry itself or its consumers. Industry experts have attempted to better explain sustainability and its elements in order to kickstart necessary dialogue – like Condé Nast’s Sustainable Fashion Glossary in combination with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. But all in all, sustainability is a major umbrella encompassing many different elements, including quality, materials, reduced waste and chemical output, animal-free or vegan and then ethical and fair labor practices among others. While it’s becoming increasingly clear that consumers want sustainability from their brands – “a recent survey of American consumers by Boston Consulting Group found that 75 percent view sustainability as ‘important’ or ‘very important’” – it’s becoming clearer that one’s definition of sustainability varies significantly (Willersdorf and Mitchell, 2020, para. 1).
Interestingly, a major factor impacting consumers’ definitions of sustainability is age. According to an article for the Business of Fashion by Sarah Willersdorf and Robbin Mitchell (2020), “while younger cohorts place greater emphasis on animal-free and vegan-made products, as well as ethical trade and durability, senior cohorts remain focused on recycled goods and waste reduction” (para. 8). In my research thus far, I’ve found very consistent answers to that statement. But on top of that, and perhaps more unsettling, I have found that many brand representatives, and consumers themselves, feel that it’ll be an uphill battle to convince consumers that sustainability does not equal lower quality. As it pertains to the luxury industry in particular, many consumers feel that investing in high quality products in and of itself is sustainable. In many ways, I guess it is more sustainable. If you’re paying a premium price point for luxury items then you are investing in higher quality pieces and, hopefully, purchasing less items overall. Here’s the thing though – just because it’s a luxury item doesn’t mean it’s produced sustainably and ethically.
With all the options available to them, what’s the story to make sustainability appealing?
Industry experts wonder why consumers state an interest in purchasing more sustainably, yet often fail to do so – I think this could be the answer: to many consumers (both young and old), sustainability equals lower quality. As stated by Willersdorf and Mitchell (2020), “…sustainability matters to consumers, but not at a premium, and certainly less than other functional, immediately felt concerns [like value, quality, durability and style]” (para. 13). You know, it’s quite strange. Consumers often feel as if sustainability means a higher price point, but lower quality. So, what’s the solution? Well, according to my research, it’s all in the storytelling. According to brand representatives from Versace and Ralph Lauren, brands need to find a way to make sustainability something that consumers want, desire and “need.” First of all, brands need to do a better job of informing consumers about both its sustainable practices and the environmental impact of purchasing. Second, a great deal of consumerism is done in order to quench this desire to be a part of something – to belong; so, brands need to make sustainability something of which consumers want to be a part.
While there may not be an agreed upon definition for sustainability, this fact remains true: a desire for belonging is consistent throughout all age groups. Many brands are starting to take the necessary steps to become more sustainable, but it won’t survive if consumers don’t actually buy into the appeal.
So, what’s the story of sustainability that’ll appeal to consumers?
What do you think?
Bye for now,
McGee