The Effects of E-Commerce
Oftentimes when talking about sustainability in the fashion industry, the focus is on manufacturing – justifiably so. Manufacturing makes up the large majority of fashion’s environmental footprint. However, in quarantine times, e-commerce is quickly moving its way up the unsustainable ladder. As stated by Sarah Kent (2020):
In Europe alone, Bernstein projects the growth rate of online fashion will triple this year to account for more than 20 percent of total sales – the equivalent of five years of growth in about six months. Those orders will largely be packaged in cardboard or plastic, then loaded onto gas-guzzling trucks, planes and ships. Many will then be returned, requiring another journey halfway around the world before often winding up in a landfill. (para. 2)
While an increase in e-commerce is a “welcome boost” to the financial success of the fashion industry during Covid-times, its environmental impact should not be overlooked (para. 1). The responsibility to make e-commerce more sustainable lies not only on the brands themselves, but also on the consumers. To be perfectly honest, sustainability is more expensive and requires more effort from both the brands and the consumers.
Kent (2020) illustrates this point in discussing Australian online retailer, The Iconic. While The Iconic committed to using more sustainable packaging, it didn’t expect the time, money and rebranding it would require. Over the 18 months it took to overhaul its packaging and branding, the brand faced many challenges. The materials it originally wanted to use were not easily disposable due to a lack of composting locations in Australia. Once it finally settled on “recycled pouches made from 100 percent post-consumer plastic waste,” more challenges followed (para. 8). First of all, consumers have to drop off the packaging in “special collection bins” to ensure that it will be properly recycled (para. 9). Second, the brand had to flip the coloring of its traditional branding so that it effectively printed on the material. While a switch in branding may seem trivial considering the bigger sustainable picture, consumers associate brands so closely with its logo, so it comes as no surprise that The Iconic was concerned about this change.
Amazon Production Center.
On top of concerns with packaging, shipping plays a major role in the environmental waste caused by e-commerce. According to Kent (2020), “reducing the number of journeys between warehouses and customers’ homes, and finding cleaner modes of transportation, is key to reducing e-commerce’s carbon footprint” (para. 13). While that may seem simple to state, putting those efforts into practice is way more complex. Large brands often stock items in different warehouses; or if a product happens to be out-of-stock, brands don’t want to hold up an entire shipment for that one item. Multiplying the problem even further, returns pose a major issue to reducing e-commerce’s carbon footprint – “according to returns technology company Optoro, more than 5 billion items worth around $400 billion are returned every year in the US alone. The company estimates that generates around 5 billion pounds of waste to landfill and 15 million tons of carbon dioxide” (para. 20). In an attempt to reduce returns, brands are working to provide better descriptions and images of how a product will look and fit on the consumer.
I draw attention to the effects of e-commerce not to discourage you from purchasing online, but to make you more aware – becoming more sustainable requires more effort on the part of the consumer and the brand. When shopping online, pay attention to the production practices of the brand from which you’re shopping. Do they mention anything about packaging options? If they offer express shipping, choose traditional shipping instead. And when it comes to picking products to buy, try not to purchase impulsively. Take the time to think about the fit, the material and how much you will truly wear that product. Practicing good shopping habits can reduce the number of returns, thereby reducing the overall environmental impact of e-commerce.
With the current state of the world, the fashion industry needs e-commerce to survive – we can all recognize that fact. That being said, let’s try to be ethical and sustainable consumers.
Bye for now,
McGee