A Reinvention of the Past
I’m going to go ahead and say you’re welcome because I would seriously love to dive into my experience studying abroad in London... BUT, I won’t. While that is related to this week’s blog topic, it (unfortunately) is not the central point. *sigh* This week, I wanted to discuss a timeless art that finds its home on Savile Row – bespoke tailoring.
“Savile Row - no other name, or destination, in the modern world, has such a direct influence on bespoke tailoring.”
In today’s world of fast fashion and ever-changing trends and seasons, what was once the societal norm has now become an exclusive (and expensive) rarity. Before the creation and implementation of sewing machines in the 18th century, all clothing was made by hand and to order (Roetzel, 2017). London, in particular, was the home of original bespoke tailoring – “London was the capital of the first world at the time and English style and British cloth were internationally considered to be the height of elegance” (para. 3). Tailors prospered internationally. Regardless of their socioeconomic status, men, women and children all over the world needed clothing; and ready-to-wear clothes were not yet available. Even the poorest individuals purchased secondhand, made-to-order clothing. Savile Row’s iconic “suit quickly became the modern uniform of the everyday worker” (Bowden, 2020, para. 5).
Menswear Illustration c. 1840, all garments were handmade.
During the 18th century, many tailors created cutting systems in an effort to reduce numbers of fittings (Roetzel, 2017). Then in 1830, “the first machine-based clothing manufacturer opened in France to supply uniforms to the French army, and civilian clothing manufacturers were soon to follow” (para. 4). By the late 19th century, the ready-to-wear industry had gained footing and produced good quality and fit clothing to the masses. Despite this industrial progress, bespoke clothing still held the highest appeal – “each garment was unique in terms of style and fit to its owner” (para. 5). As time has progressed, bespoke tailoring has declined as tastes in clothing have become more and more casual and fast fashion has lowered the prices, thereby increasing accessibility to clothing. However, the present market has seen an uptick in interest around bespoke tailoring. As stated by Bernhard Roetzel (2017), “today, dressing in a classic way has found a new audience among men [and women] who want to look good while investing in a wardrobe that will stand the test of time” (para. 8).
Savile Row
As I often acknowledge when we get to this point in the blog post, I am sure you’re asking yourself, “why are we discussing the history of bespoke tailoring on a blog about sustainability and the fashion industry?” Well, well, I’m glad you ask! During my quarantine pondering about sustainability, I have thought about a rise in made-to-order. Rather than mass production and overproducing clothing that will ultimately go to waste, what would happen if we reinvented made-to-order, reinvented bespoke? I recognize the exclusivity in bespoke tailoring due to the often hefty price tags, and unfortunately I don’t yet have an answer to that; but with the growing consumer interest in personalization and how to make items unique to each consumer, I wouldn’t be surprised if made-to-order came back to the forefront of the fashion industry. An increase in made-to-order could mean a decrease in waste due to overproduction. Just some thoughts!
Bye for now,
McGee