Anxiety and Unknown
Over the past few weeks, articles and updates on the coronavirus outbreak have flooded my notifications. From the New York Times to the Business of Fashion, anxiety surrounding the coronavirus has dominated public conversation. Based on the previous articles published on this blog, some of you may be asking yourselves how a discussion of the coronavirus relates to a blog about fashion and sustainability. Well, I think the coronavirus outbreak highlights the complexity of “sustainability.” A need for sustainability within the fashion industry does not solely refer to its tangible products – it intends to encompass the need for an entire reassessment of the industry. In particular, the coronavirus outbreak highlights the dependence upon which the fashion industry has on China. The coronavirus, a “deadly respiratory illness known as COVID-19,” originated in the Chinese city of Wuhan and has accounted for nearly 2,000 Chinese deaths and counting (BOF Team, 2020, para. 3; Chen, 2020).
“China has become all-important to the global luxury and fashion industries as a driver of sales and a core manufacturing hub.”
A woman outside a luxury store in Hong Kong.
On the sales side, Chinese consumers play a major role in the global luxury fashion industry. They account for roughly 40% of the $305 billion spent on luxury goods annually and they drive nearly 80% of the luxury fashion industry’s sales growth (Abboud & Eley, 2020). Chinese consumers represent THE fastest growing luxury shopper demographic in the world. On the manufacturing side, many fashion companies, specifically mid-level or fast-fashion companies in Europe and luxury fashion houses in the United States, are reliant on China for manufacturing and shipping their products. Even though China lifted the two-week mandatory holiday earlier this month, there are still many complicated issues getting goods out of China, and most importantly, “brands and their suppliers must factor the safety and health of their workers into their plans” (Chen, 2020, para. 6). Based on the financial impact of the Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS) epidemic in 2002, which was between a $40-50 billion dent in the global economy, experts are predicting the coronavirus could cost the global economy three or four times that much – that is between $120 and $200 billion (BOF Team, 2020).
Customers at a luxury shopping mall in Shanghai.
So – what does all this information really call attention to? I think it draws attention to how much focus the fashion industry solely focuses on profit. Before you attack me, I know that it’s a business – it has to focus on profit and growth in order to succeed! The online conversation surrounding the coronavirus has focused so exclusively on the shutting down of manufacturers and the loss of business and revenue in Chinese markets, but there hasn’t been much talk about the people. The people who make this industry happen. The people who sustain this industry. In my opinion, a need for positive and sustainable change within the fashion industry should, in large part, be focused on quality working conditions and keeping people safe. I mean, all in all, the best, most quality products are produced by people in quality environments with quality treatment – just another thing to think about.
Bye for now (and wash your hands!),
McGee